My Favorite Historic Cemetery
PLUS: A Tomato Butter Sauce to Die For
Hey there. I hope you’re having a peaceful Saturday morning — and that Hygge & History gives you a bit of positive inspiration for your week.
If you’re reading this, you’re one of my first subscribers. One more this week, thanks to Mary! Thank you for your support while I build this little lifelong dream.
So grab a cup of coffee or tea, and let’s get cozy.
History Time
It’s almost October, and I feel like getting in a spooky mood.
But a historyish-spooky mood.
So I thought I would share a little bit about my favorite “off the beaten path” spot in DC:
I first stumbled across Rock Creek Cemetery when I lived in Petworth, a neighborhood in Northwest DC.
The cemetery is an 86-acre oasis of mature trees, dynamic sculptures, and stunning views.
The front gate is at Webster Street NW and Rock Creek Church Road, just off North Capitol Street.
It also happens to be up the street from the burger joint where I went on my first date with The Man.
I decided to tell him on said date that I liked walking around cemeteries for fun.
Rock Creek Cemetery is attached to DC’s oldest church — St. Paul’s Episcopal. It was founded in 1719 — when the land was still part of the British colony of Maryland.
The views are spectacular because the church and cemetery are situated at one of the high points in DC.
From the moment you step onto the grounds, you can tell that the spot was chosen for its natural beauty.
The eighteenth-century churchyard is near the cemetery’s center, on a small hill about 100 yards from the church.
Some gravestones have legible inscriptions that date to the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries.
In 1840, Congress passed a bill making the grounds surrounding the church a public cemetery for DC.
Rock Creek Cemetery is an explorer’s paradise.
I love getting lost down one of the many paved trails — birds singing, wind rustling through the trees — the PSITHURISM — with amazing views, and cool sculptures.
BONUS: you’ve usually got the whole place to yourself.
There is something very humbling and introspective about wandering a historic cemetery.
You’re seeing how a person wanted to be remembered.
For instance, I’ve always assumed this dude had one hell of a sense of humor:
You’re hyper-aware of how many people have come and gone on this earth.
Each gravestone is a snapshot in time, telling its own story.
And the trees! They’re magnificent and ancient. I guess that’s what comes with a plot of land being cared for by a church for 300 years.
One of the largest trees, the Glebe Oak, has a circumference of over 17 feet.
There are beautiful works of art everywhere. Many of the grave markers are elaborately designed obelisks. The mausoleums are incredible architecture on a small scale.
But my favorites are the sculptures.
One of Rock Creek Cemetery’s most famous sculptures marks the graves of Henry Adams and his wife, Marion.
Henry was the great-grandson of John Adams and the grandson of John Quincy Adams. Henry commissioned the piece after Marion’s death in 1885.
Popularly known as “Grief,” it was created by Augustus Saint-Gaudens and installed in 1891.
Noted architect Stanford White designed the surrounding granite memorial. The circular bench inside the memorial is a beautiful place for solace and reflection.
Much of Rock Creek Cemetery’s most famous artwork was installed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
One of my favorite pieces is the Rabboni-Ffoulke Memorial. It was created by Gutzon Borglum and installed in 1909.
This haunting piece depicts Mary Magdalene after she discovers Christ’s empty tomb.
I love how the wear on the statue makes her look like she’s crying.
Rock Creek Cemetery is a walk through DC history.
It is the final resting place for many illustrious DC residents: Members of Congress, mayors, poets, writers, ambassadors, Supreme Court Justices, civic leaders, children and grandchildren of presidents.
Even the architect of the US Capitol chose Rock Creek Cemetery as his final resting place.
Not gonna lie — I had a personal moment the day that I found the grave of Tim Russert.
Once I discovered this incredible and peaceful place — a history park in my own backyard — it quickly became one of my favorite spots.
I visit in all seasons to absorb the beauty. I even trekked up the hill after a blizzard to take some once-in-a-lifetime photos.
So if you’re thinking to yourself, “This cemetery thing actually sounds pretty cool,” — do a Google search for historic cemeteries in your area.
You’ll find a place where your weary soul can gain some respite from everyday life.
Wander among the dead and enjoy some beautiful fall weather.
Do you have a fave cemetery? Tell me about it in the comments!
In the Kitchen
Sadly, it’s almost the end of tomato season here in Virginia, and our beautiful Hanovers will be gone until next summer.
Luckily, this decadent Tomato Butter Sauce can be made with cherry or Roma tomatoes, too.
This indulgent sauce whips up in under 15 minutes — and is a sumptuous late-summer/early-fall addition to any pasta dish.
I modified the sauce from this recipe in The Washington Post — and used some fresh ravioli we bought at Publix.
Bon appetit!
You need:
1 stick butter
1 tomato - chopped into 1-inch chunks
Garlic to taste
2 green onions, thinly sliced
Fresh herbs, chopped – I used dill – you could use parsley, basil, chives — but I really think the dill makes the flavor pop
Zest and juice of one lemon
Salt and pepper
To Make:
Melt butter over med/low heat in a medium to large saucepan
Once the butter is melted, add tomatoes to the saucepan. Season with salt and pepper.
Saute for 5-7 minutes, until tomatoes release their juices and begin to melt into the butter.
Add garlic and green onions. Stir.
Zest lemon into the sauce. Add lemon juice. Stir.
Add herbs. Let the sauce simmer for 1 minute to come together.
Season to taste. Spoon over ravioli or add to your fave pasta.
Easiest dinner ever.
Let me know if you try this recipe — or share one of your favorite easy pasta dishes — in the comments!
My Personal Hygge
There’s nothing like a good diner.
Richmond has an abundance of excellent diners. If I’m being honest, it’s the type of food this city does best.
Mid-century comfort food with a modern twist suits this artistic, growing city full of unique history and old industrial buildings.
Before The Man and I moved to Richmond, I lived in the DC area for nearly twenty years, and it did a lot of food things well. I’ll miss the Asian food in Annandale until I die — but there was a dearth of unique diners with that old-school feel.
Most spots felt either too corporate or too bougie to me. There was an exception — Amphora in Fairfax — RIP. It was the best diner in NOVA/DC until it shuttered.
When we moved here in 2019, I found myself pleasantly surprised by the diversity of super cool diner-y places.
A little backstory…
When The Man and I started dating, I worked in a semi-fancy wine bar in Old Town Alexandria, and he was more of a sports bar type.
I will be forever grateful that a little voice told me to suggest the new heavy metal-themed burger place in my neighborhood for our first date.
It set the tone for the rest of our relationship.
Going to diners and divey places became our thing — and we have found some delicious ones along the way. He really brings out my Southern, down-to-earth side.
Don’t get me wrong, we’ve gone to our share of restaurants with tasting menus.
But — particularly since the post-pandemic decline in service — I find I prefer a casual experience because I don’t have the expectation of white tablecloth service.
And the diners here in Richmond are just so good.
This morning we hit Dot’s Back Inn — it became one of our favorite spots during the pandemic because it has a great patio. It’s also in a super cute neighborhood on the North Side.
Today was the first time we sat inside, and it felt timeless — like a good diner should.
The carved wooden booths looked like they had been there as long as the picture of FDR had been hanging behind the bar. An awesome 80’s New Wave playlist was on, and I got a real menu to look at.
I’m with the Boomers on that one. QR codes are for the birds.
Dot’s has these amazing fried apples — crisp and not too sweet — that you can get as a side.
Here is a photo of their ridiculously tasty Corned Beef Hash — with the apples…the delicious, delicious apples.
Today I noticed that you can order French Toast with said apples on top.
Done — with a side of exceptionally tasty, herb-heavy breakfast sausage.
Sorry, I didn’t get a photo — I was halfway through the deliciousness before I started thinking clearly.
The coffee was excellent — most diners in Richmond serve good local coffee — and the bar TV was playing The Jetsons.
It was almost like stepping through a portal to a time before smartphones —with the added bonus of no smoking.
Do you have a favorite diner-type spot? Let me know in the comments!
Ambient Chillout of the Week
It’s not a diner — but how about a rainy morning in a cozy bookstore cafe?